Academician Yao Mu Guides The Development Of Xinjiang Textile And Clothing Industry

At the 2015 Xinjiang Seminar on Innovative Cotton Textile Technology held in Urumqi on August 17, Yao Mu, a famous expert in textile materials and academician of the Chinese Academy of Engineering, made a keynote report at the meeting. The "Advantages of Xinjiang's Cotton Textile Industry and Suggestions on Transformation and Upgrading" provided support for Xinjiang's development of cotton textile industry.

　　 Xinjiang cotton textile industry We should not only open up the complete industrial chain of fiber raw materials, spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing, clothing and household textiles, but also closely combine the final products and the final market to develop and produce "high", "new", "special", "refined" and "excellent" products.

Academician Yao Mu, 85 years old, is one of the pioneers in the study of human dress comfort. In the past five years, the total industrial output value of enterprises above designated size in the clothing industry of Shaanxi Province has maintained a growth rate of 30% for five consecutive years. One of the important magic weapons is that Academician Yao Mu has presided over functional textile research and development in Xi'an University of Engineering for more than 30 years, and has achieved a large number of results, which makes the series of functional textile and clothing industries in Shaanxi Province become the leading leader in the field of domestic professional clothing, And drive the development of textile and clothing industry in the province.

In 14 months since June 2014, Academician Yao Mu has been entrusted by the Chinese Academy of Engineering to carry out research on the development of cotton textile industry in Xinjiang for six times. He said that Xinjiang is the main production area of cotton fiber in China and the key energy supply place in China. There is sufficient oil, natural gas, power and heat sources. Xinjiang is also an important intermediate link of the Silk Road Economic Belt and an important joint point of textile (clothing, household) export. In addition, it is sparsely populated and has abundant labor force. The central and autonomous regions give strong support to the development of textile and clothing industry, which is the development of Xinjiang Cotton textile industry Advantages. However, Xinjiang also has disadvantages in developing the cotton textile industry. For example, the production chain of Xinjiang's cotton textile industry is not complete, and the market for final products has not yet been formally formed. The understanding of the market demand in Central Asia and West Asia is not very clear, the combination with the nation, history, culture, and regional fashion has not yet officially started, and the understanding of the fashion cycle of the color, style, and performance of textile products is still nearly blank. Moreover, over the years, Xinjiang's cotton production has paid too much attention to improving the yield per unit area, and the quality has declined. In addition, plastic film pollution and mechanical harvesting have exacerbated the problem of heterosexual fibers in cotton fibers, seriously affecting the quality of lint, which is detrimental to the development of cotton textile industry. In addition, Xinjiang needs to make great efforts to strengthen language and labor skills training for ethnic minority labor force.

At present, China's cotton textile industry is facing the squeeze from two major aspects of the international market. On the one hand, it is the advantage of processing costs of emerging developing countries in the third world economic development, including South Asia, Southeast Asia, Africa and other places, especially India, Bangladesh and other countries (labor costs are about 1/8-1/10 of China's). Since August 2012, 20 British counts of cotton yarn produced in India has been exported to China with an import tariff of 17800 yuan/ton, 3000 yuan/ton lower than the purchase price of 20400 yuan/ton of China's stored cotton, which has led to the complete stop of production of medium and low British counts of pure cotton yarn in China except for special varieties. The former economically developed textile countries (Britain, the United States, France, Germany, Italy, etc.) began to implement the policy of "re industrialization" in 2013/2014 to resume cotton textile processing and production. In 2014, the United States added 870000 spindles of air jet vortex spinning equipment for cotton spinning. The unit yield is 6-8 times higher than that of ring spinning frame. Sliver input, bobbin yarn output, automatic winding, automatic yarn breaking connection, few workers, labor costs, energy costs are significantly lower than in China. From the middle of June 2014, 16 pieces of pure cotton yarn from the United States were exported to China with an import tariff of 17200 yuan/ton. Under the pressure of the above two aspects, the production environment of Chinese pure cotton medium and low count yarns has completely lost. China's cotton textile industry can only produce pure cotton high count, ultra-high count cotton yarn or chemical fiber new functional yarn and low proportion of cotton blended yarn.

For the development of Xinjiang's cotton textile industry, Academician Yao Mu suggested that the complete industrial chain of fiber raw materials, spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing, clothing and household textiles should be opened as soon as possible, and at the same time, the "high", "new", "special", "refined" and "excellent" products should be developed and produced in close combination with the final products and the final market.

"High" means high performance, such as high strength, high temperature resistance, ablation resistance, low temperature brittleness resistance, cutting resistance, stab resistance, chemical corrosion resistance, light guide, heat conduction, magnetic conductivity, strong radiation resistance, nuclear radiation resistance, etc.

"New" is a new function. Such as waterproof, oil proof, antifouling, moisture transmission (sweat transmission), fast drying, high water absorption, heat preservation, cool, constant temperature, bacteriostasis, deodorization, mosquito prevention, acarid repellency, UV radiation protection, release of oxygen anion, release of fragrance, anti-static, conductive, electrical insulation, antimagnetism, isolation of bacteria, isolation of viruses, isolation of toxic gas, vapor permeability, shielding, discoloration, etc.

"Special" means special use. It has various properties and functions to comprehensively adapt to special objects, special populations and special structures, special environment adaptability, special population adaptability, etc., such as shape memory, blood pressure measurement, blood sugar measurement, pulse measurement, electrocardiogram measurement, etc.

"Fine" means fine, precise, exquisite, exquisite and exquisite. Combine fashion, art, culture, green, health, environmental protection, brand and so on to refine products.

"Excellent" means having excellent quality. Comprehensive indicators, excellent performance, small dispersion, long durability, safety and reliability, etc.

Academician Yao Mu suggested that we should strengthen the training and training of textile and clothing technicians and workers, pay special attention to the multiple functional requirements and quality of products in textile research and development, adopt multi fiber blending, carry forward the advantages of various fibers, avoid their short rib defects, and make the final products refined, specialized, special and strong, Adapt to the market trend of "multi variety, small batch and fast delivery", and gradually avoid the traditional defects of large batch, large but not strong.

　　 Yao Mu Academicians suggested that in Xinjiang, where the ecological environment is very fragile, new textile and clothing enterprises should pay attention to environmental protection, adopt advanced and environmentally friendly equipment and technology, pay attention to the discharge of sewage, sewage, pollutants and noise in processing and production, save energy and water, reduce the consumption of raw materials, auxiliary materials, additives and equipment, and reduce the discharge of sewage, sewage and pollutants, Special attention shall be paid to the treatment of reclaimed water reuse, and the discharge water quality shall be good, so as to create a demonstration for green production and green ecology.

He also suggested that attention should be paid to the development and development of manufacturing services. Learn the idea of after-sales lifetime warranty in the home appliance industry, and develop the service industry. For example, the household textiles (bed sheets, bedding, pillow towels, towels, bath towels, curtains, seat cushions, etc.) in large hotels and hostels not only provide special design, production, supply, but also provide after-sales washing services, or even "leasing" services.